Where to stay in Chichicastenango? The famous hotel, the Mayan Inn, is nice, but rooms are small and most guide books suggest the place has seen better days. The last time I visited there was only a single person in the bar, the fire was not even lit, and the place looked so vacant that my girlfriend said she wanted a place a bit more lively.

The Hotel Santo Tomas has larger rooms, fresher appearance, wonderful gardens, and has the distinct advantage of being operated by its owner, Sra de Magermanns. You can always tell when the owner is present, because then things are perkier. Mrs Magermanns lives in the hotel so keeps everything running smoothly. Andrea and I have enjoyed staying at the Hotel Santo Tomas many times over the years.

The third first class hotel in Chichicastenango is on the edge of the city, the Villa Grande, part of the Villas de Guatemala chain. Reservations in Guatemala are through the main office in Guatemala City (011) (502) 334-8136 through 8139

fax 334 8134, email: stpvillas@pronet.net.gt

We recently spent several days in the Villa Grande and show photographs of inside and outside the hotel.

A few general comments about Chichicastenango. First, it is worthwhile staying at least two days (one night or two nights). Second, the Thursday market is less crowded than the overfilled Sunday market. Third, the day before the market is the best day to arrive, stay that night, then stay most or all of the actual market day.

Fourth, do not expect gourmet food in Chichicastengo. In distinction, in the smaller village of Copan (ruins), Honduras, Andrea and I had a steak as good as in Paris or Brussels. In Copan the Tunkul Restaurant (not the steakhouse) we also get large servings of good food in a lively atmosphere. In distinction, none of the restaurants in Chichi had this kind of rock and roll atmosphere of a cosy bar and nice place to meet new friends.

Fifth, cabs do not exist in Chichicastenango. Pickpockets do exist, as in most market areas of the world, but violent crime is atypical. In other words, Chichi is safe as anywhere and the pickpockets are careful to lift your wallet without you even knowing it.

Overall, Guatemala of today is so much safer than Guatemala when we lived here in 1997 that there is hardly any comparison. The violent highway robberies are much rarer, the Zona Viva (Zone 10 area of the capital) is safe again in the evening and downtown is safe during daylight hours (don't forget, most American downtowns are not exactly safe at night either).

Overall, after a rough period of turmoil in earlier years (read the US. State Department section on Guatemala), Guatemala is peaceful again and as always, a wonderful travel destination. Hotel staff, waiters, drivers, tend to be friendly, helpful, and honest. Guatemala is still my favorite travel destination.